Dealing with Returns

Computer Care: The art of returning faulty items

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

POSTED Sept. 12, 2009 12:57 a.m.

When I was a boy, my dad told me to always ask for the head barber. Tony owned the local clip joint where I grew up. He gave me a decent haircut, shaved my young sideburns with hot lather and tossed a steamy towel on me before slapping a cheap, aromatic after-shave on my face.

He made feel like a man. The secret, I discovered at an early age, was dealing with the one in charge.

It took some time for me to realize though, that my dad’s instructions applied not just for barbers, but for everywhere. His lesson has served me well. Wherever I go, especially when I have a problem, I ask for the head barber.

Recently, I went to a large superstore with a client to return a computer that was shipped to him DOA. We were politely shrugged off by all at the store. "Son," I heard my dad’s voice say. "Ask for the head barber."

So I asked to speak to the store manager. I’ll tell you in a moment what happened, but first here’s some tips to consider when dealing with a situation such as this:

• Whether in person or on the phone, get names of those you encounter. Know who you’re speaking with and take notes.

• Keep your cool. Don’t raise your voice and don’t make threats. Nobody responds well to threats.

• Be familiar with the warranty. Know when the store stops covering the product and the manufacturer takes over.

• Save all boxes, manuals, cables, etc., as they will check for them upon a return.

• Be flexible. The agent may be willing to trade your broken product for a similar, if not identical one. Be willing to consider a compromise. Be ready to accept it.

• Stand your ground, if you are certain you are in the right. Don’t be brushed off by, "Sorry, but there’s nothing I can do to help you." Find someone who can.

• Occasionally the manager will not be available. If you get nowhere with his assistant, go home and call the store, the head office or write them a strong, well thought-out letter. A snail-mail letter, especially registered, will have more effect than an e-mail. But you might start with that.

Understand sometimes you take a chance when you buy certain sale items. In those cases, should something go wrong, you may have to eat it. Open-box items, clearance sales, returns and many refurbished products are sold "as is," meaning you get a deep discount but take a chance on product quality. Most often there is nothing wrong with these items, but you never know. It’s a gamble and occasionally you lose.

But when you spend hundreds of dollars on a new item and something goes wrong, you then have a legitimate gripe. Most stores are reluctant to offer you a refund, but will exchange a broken item for one that works.

Be reasonable in your demands though. Don’t expect a trade because you don’t like the color of a product or because it has a small scratch on it.

Now back to my case. The computer arrived late and unable to boot up. This was after six days when my client paid for "expedited" shipping. I explained this to the sales guy, his supervisor and eventually to the store manager and that I was a PC tech who knew a dead computer when I saw one. What made me dig in even more was when he informed me there was nothing he could do, due to the fact that the computer was purchased on the Web site, not at the store.

I advised him that consumers don’t care about such details. The store, the Web site — it’s all the same to us, and that it should be for them as well.

I told him I was guilty of opening the case to see if there was a hard drive installed. He then matter-of-factly informed me that could void the warranty. I told him I broke no foil seal in the process. He told me the screws had special paint to tell if they had been tampered with. I told him I did in fact tamper with them to open the case. Wow!

So we went back and forth for some time. I think he finally realized I wasn’t going anywhere and that we had a legitimate gripe. He said he had to call someone in authority. I told him I could wait. He eventually gave in and allowed us to swap out the bad unit for a good one.

The bottom line here is that you should not be intimidated by a sales clerk. If you spent a lot of money in a store, you deserve a lot of customer service (not an oxymoron). Don’t accept that there is nothing they can do. Sure there is.

If you have trouble dealing with the person at hand, heed my dad’s words: Ask for the head barber.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly.

The Cost of Free Programs

Computer Care: Beware the costs of free programs

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

POSTED Aug. 14, 2009 11:30 p.m.

Everyone likes a bargain. There are two-for-one beers, free samples, free parking, free admission, free Wi-Fi and free downloads.

All are great except for the last one. Free downloads are not always free. Well, they may be free, but there is still a price to pay.

Sure, some free downloads make you eventually pay for the program, but that’s not where I’m going. I’ve mentioned this in the past, but it’s worth saying again: A free program is not only free of cost, but free of support as well.

You are on your own when you download a free program from the Internet. Don’t expect help from the site you got it from or from those who wrote the program. Somewhere in all of those OK and Next buttons you initially click is an agreement stating that fact.

You use the program at your own risk. Should something go wrong, it’s on you. You need to know what you are using, how to use it and what it does. This especially holds true with registry tools. In just a couple of wrong mouse clicks, you could turn an $800 laptop into an expensive doorstop.

The first thing to do is make sure your system is healthy. If it’s already on the edge and you push it, there will be consequences.

When you install something on your system — anything — make sure nothing else is running. That means not just closing open windows, but also checking the taskbar. Look over by the clock and close down any programs you don’t need. Everyone has some utilities running there. Right-click and exit them. This is especially true of anti-virus programs.

When you later reboot, they will come back, so don’t worry about restarting them. The less you have running during an installation, the less of a chance you have of something going wrong.

It’s always good practice to create a system restore point prior to installing anything, should something go awry. It will give you a point to return to in case of trouble, kind of like Mr. Peabody’s Way-Back Machine. Some applications will create one for you automatically or at least ask you if you want to create one, but many will not.

From your Start menu in XP, click Accessories, then System Tools and System Restore. Choose to create a restore point. If you prefer to have it always on your start menu, right-click on it and choose: pin to start menu. It will then reside above the line on the left side of the menu.

In Vista, look in Control Panel under Classic view for Backup and Restore Center. In the left column, click on: Create a System Restore Point.

Your anti-virus and anti-malware utilities should have been running when you downloaded those programs you’re about to install. That is when anything malicious would get caught. There are a ton of Trojan horses circulating the Internet and if you are not careful and diligent, one or more will find its way to your computer.

Use reputable Web sites for downloads. Don’t click on every link that flashes "Free" on your screen. If you use online forums to read about others’ experiences with programs, you’ll learn plenty. Sites like download.com allow you to read not only the editor’s comments about programs, but you can see other user’s comments as well. This may help you decide if a program is worthwhile.

Many programs are written by the small guy, as opposed to corporate giants. Often the application written by the guy living in his parents’ basement is the best out there. Should you decide to pay the affordable $24 fee he’ll ask for, you’ll then get all the support you need.

I once had a guy e-mail me from Finland within hours of my query for help. It was well worth the small price I paid for his program.

Keep in mind, I would never recommend a program to you without having first tried it myself. I’ve had readers write, telling me that a program I wrote about was garbage and how could I?

Not every utility will function perfectly on every system. It just doesn’t work that way. Unfortunately we don’t live in a perfect world.

In some cases, as I mentioned, if the computer is already on the edge, all it may take is hitting the Enter key for an error to occur. In others, it may take running a program. But it’s not my fault, whatever the case. So please, don’t kill the messenger.

If you install a lot of programs, remember to delete them if you don’t use them. Why clutter up your hard drive? Then, since you are deleting lots of programs, it’s a good idea to run your defrag utility every now and then. There is always some maintenance involved with computing.

Just keep in mind there are many enticing, free programs on the Internet. Use them wisely and cautiously.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly. Arthur welcomes your computer questions and ideas for future columns.

Junk Files on your Computer

Computer Care: Clean junk off hard drive for better performance

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

UPDATED July 31, 2009 11:47 p.m.

Computers are magnets for junk files. There are those that Windows needs temporarily and neglects to discard; there are browser histories; installation files and just plain old junk.

Everyone has old e-mails and programs that we once couldn’t do without, but haven’t used in months. Then there are the space hogs, the music and video files. Keeping your system junk-free will help keep it fast.

Just because you put your unused items in the recycle bin doesn’t get them off of your system. You just put the trash in the can, but haven’t taken it out to the curb yet. You need to empty it. Although keeping files in the bin until you know they are truly not needed is a good precaution, you have the option of deleting your trash immediately. Right-click on the Recycle Bin and choose Properties and check the option to empty it.

Even if you delete of all of the above, a good cleaning utility will still find megabytes of garbage on your computer.

It’s not just a matter of keeping it fast; it is also a matter of security. What remains behind after you are done with it, prying eyes may find. There are browser searches, cookies, run commands, the prefetch folder and forms you filled out, some with sensitive information.

You can clean all that manually by clicking this and that, but you need to know where to look, and junk data is hidden in many places. You’d be better off getting a utility to do it for you.

There are dedicated programs to scrub your system, as well as some suites. As always, many can be downloaded for free.

I like CCleaner, a freebie that attaches to your Recycle Bin. You right-click on it to run and in one fell swoop, it cleans a good bit of your junk files then empties the trash can. It can be customized to keep the cookies you want. Get it from www.ccleaner.com/download.

My new favorite tool is a free multi-purpose program from Comodo. System Cleaner is a thorough, easy-to-use utility, available at http://system-cleaner.comodo.com/download.html.

It has a Power Clean option that doesn’t miss a thing. It also checks your registry. Another one is Advanced System Care, that does the same thing as CCleaner and also checks the registry. Download it at www.iobit.com/advancedwindowscareper.html.

There are lots of others. Just Google, "cleaning utility." Remember, just because it is a free download, doesn’t necessarily mean it is a free program. It may be, but read the fine print.

If you are really cleaning your hard drive to make more room, there are other things to consider. Be careful what you delete; some items you may want to keep or at least burn to CD or DVD or move to an external hard drive. Some of those videos, music files, photos or programs you purchased may be irreplaceable.

If you’re a photographer or an audiophile, you could free up many gigabytes by transferring those files to another medium. Just having one copy of something you cherish is never a good idea anyway. You wouldn’t want to lose that shot of your son hitting a homer or your daughter’s solo on stage would you?

Hard drives fail. It is a fact of computing. Dupe those images and tunes to a second disc while you’re at it.

Aside from what’s mentioned above, another big space hog is fonts. Some systems have dozens of fonts that are never used. Removing some will also speed up your boot time.

If you wonder how full your computer is, hover your mouse over your "C" drive icon and it will tell you. If you want to see a pie chart, right-click on it and go to Properties.

When you’re done cleaning your system of unnecessary files, run whatever defragmenting tool you have. It will help keep your computer running fast. It likes contiguous free disc space and when you delete as much as we’ve just talked about, there will be lots of gaps in the file structure.

If you don’t have a third-party defrag application installed, go to Programs, Accessories, System Tools then to Defragmenter to use the Windows tool.

If you really want to get serious about it and you’ve had your computer for 4-5 years or more, reformat your hard drive and start all over. Really. I do it annually, at least. There’s nothing like a clean installation of Windows.

To give you an idea of how much "stuff" is on your hard drive: XP uses about 6 to 7 gb of space and Vista maybe 10 gb. Most of the rest that shows on that pie chart is stuff you could either delete or copy to another disc. Doing it that way, you wouldn’t have to delete a thing. After you copy what you need (and there are back-up programs too), reformatting will erase everything for you.

So whether you reinstall Windows or just do some heavy housekeeping, your computer will run faster.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly. Arthur welcomes your computer questions and ideas for future columns.

Network Your Home Computers

Computer Care: Networking your PCs is a snap

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

UPDATED July 18, 2009 12:33 a.m.

Networking your computers can be an asset to your home environment if you have more than one computer. By combining your desktop with your spouse’s laptop and your child’s PC via a home network, there are obvious benefits. All could share one Internet connection, one printer or all have access to many. You would also be able to share files.

Adding wireless to the network could enhance it even more. You would then have the ability to check your e-mail or update your Facebook account from the kitchen table or backyard lounger using a laptop.

Networking has gotten easier since Windows XP and even more so with Vista. With Win 7 coming this fall, it will be even easier still. Not to oversimplify matters, but Windows practically networks for you. The operating systems each have wizards to follow.

Providing you have the proper equipment, you could be up and running in no time. Really.

Assuming you have a broadband connection, DSL or cable, you already have a modem. Some ISPs provide a combination router/modem. If yours is just a modem, then you’ll need a router. This is where you’ll have to decide if you want wired or wireless. Routers start at about $40 and can be purchased at online retailers or locally just about anywhere.

You should have all the cables you need. The router or modem usually ships with both a USB and an Ethernet cable, the one that looks like a fat phone wire. Forget about the USB and use the Ethernet instead. Many people get into trouble thinking both cables need to be used; they don’t.

Depending upon which type of connection you have, you’ll see either a phone wire or a coaxial cable coming from the wall. That’s what you’ll want to connect to the back of your modem. If you have a separate router, use an Ethernet cable from the modem to the router. The router usually has four ports together and one by itself. The one alone is the input, the rest are outputs for a wired network.

Don’t stack the devices if you have two. Keep them at least a foot or more apart as they may cause interference. This is also true of wireless phones on the 2.4 GHz frequency. If you have one on your desk, you may want to find another place for it.

Wireless computing has a range of about 300 feet. It can connect through floors, but you may need to adjust the antennas downward. Metals studs and microwaves may also get in the way. You’ll have to experiment with placement to get an optimum signal.

Should you lose your signal, and you will, you’ll need to reset your modem. Whether it be a thunderstorm or an outage for another reason, rather than call your ISP and wait 45 minutes, do this instead: Unplug both router and modem and wait half a minute. Plug in the modem and wait for the lights to stop flashing, about 15-20 seconds. Then plug the router back in and wait for it to settle down. You should then have your connection back.

Setting up the computers: First you need to make sure all computers involved are called something different and are all in the same workgroup. If you use XP, right-click on My Computer and go to Properties. Under the Computer Name tab, give your system a unique name and click Change to rename the workgroup. Click Apply, OK and reboot.

In Vista, right-click on My Computer and click Properties. Then click on Advanced System Settings on the left, then the Computer Name tab as in XP. Give the computer a unique name and click Change to rename the Workgroup. Agree to everything and reboot.

Next, you’ll need to run the Network Setup Wizard. Depending on what you plan to do, from here on there are options, too many to cover in the constraints of this column. You’ll have to make choices and follow the prompts. They are not difficult; they have explanations and troubleshooters.

Look in Control Panel. From either XP or Vista, click the start button and look on the right column for Control Panel. XP will have both Wireless Setup and Network Setup wizards. Vista has a Network and Sharing Center under Network and Internet. There are various subheadings within that group.

Keep a USB flash drive handy. You’ll need it to save and transfer settings from one computer to the next.

In either OS, whatever it is you want to share is easily done with a right-click. If you want to share the Photos folder for example, right-click on it and choose “Share.” A hand will appear beneath the newly shared folder.

There are lots of other things to cover, including security, but as I mentioned, there’s not enough room here for it all. In a nutshell, don’t ignore it. WEP is good; WPA is better. The system will assist you in choosing. An unsecured system invites hackers and leaves you open to threats.

Worst case scenario, you’ll need to call a local technician. I hear there are a few good ones in town.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly. Arthur welcomes your computer questions and ideas for future columns.

Phishing for data

Computer Care: Don’t take the hook with data phishing games

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

POSTED July 3, 2009 11:41 p.m.

Phishing is a relatively new term that has roots in its homophone water sport, in that it means one is looking for something that’s not readily available. But as opposed to looking for fish, it is searching online for data: yours.

Those phishing for your information are not phooling around. Unlike its fun counterpart, phishing is not a leisure sport. It’s a full-time business. It employs professional thieves stalking you on the Internet.

The most common phishing trap you could fall for is the e-mail scam. You might get something in your inbox that appears to be from your bank, utility, retailer or credit card company. The ploy is to get you to refresh or confirm your personal information because your account is supposedly being updated or is about to be closed. It preys on your fears and hopes that in your moment of anxiety, you’ll cooperate.

Upon close scrutiny, you can usually tell that these are fraudulent e-mails, but most people are trusting by nature and are tricked into believing they are legitimate. Usually you will not be addressed by your name, but as Client, Patron or Card Holder. The threat may be somewhat vague, yet specific enough to get your attention.

Other e-mails may include a link for you to click on. This will take you to the phisher’s Web site, which may look like those that you do business with, but is not. It will include a blank form with an official-looking header of that company. Any information you type in is then given to the thief, whether it be your account number, password, Social Security number or pin code.

Again, scrutiny will be the tell-all. Look carefully at the web address. It may have your bank’s name in it, but instead of being "www.your-bank.com," it may read something like "www.ag.accounts.your-bank.com."

A good way to tell if a link is legitimate is to hover your mouse over the link. The true destination will appear either in a pop-up or in the browser’s status bar at the bottom of the page.

Alternatively, you may receive an official sounding phone call asking for the same information.

They will be friendly, yet assertive, requesting your personal information. If you didn’t call them, hang up. I guarantee if you ask them for a call-back number, they will hang up on you.

Your bank will tell you that they would never contact you this way. Be aware; be careful; be suspicious. There is a lot at stake: your money or even your identity. If in doubt, call or go to your bank or institution in question.

As always, your best offense is a good defense. Have the proper tools in place and the knowledge of what to do to protect yourself.

Get and use good anti-virus, anti-spam and anti-phishing utilities for your computer and be sure your firewall is in place.

Many companies now have either free downloadable utilities or offer free scans from their Web site. Check out what McAfee has to offer at http://home.mcafee.com/Downloads/FreeScanDownload.aspx?affid=0; McAfee also has a free Site Advisor available that will let you know if the site you are on is legitimate or not.

See what Symantec has at http://security.symantec.com/sscv6/WelcomePage.asp or look at AVG’s LinkScanner at http://linkscanner.avg.com.

Comodo has recently released a new, free utility, Comodo Internet Security, to assist in keeping your system free of malware. It includes a firewall with anti-virus and even comes with a 30 day free trial of LivePCSupport. Download it from their website at http://personalfirewall.comodo.com/download_firewall.html.

Any of these companies also offer full version utilities with more bells and whistles, for a price.

Visit www.staysafeonline.org for some good information including a list of more web sites that will give your system a security scan for free. Here’s a list to help you get started:

Know who you’re dealing with online.

Never click on links in unknown e-mails.

Keep your Web browser and operating system up to date.

Back up important files.

Protect your children online.

Use security software.

Use strong passwords and change them regularly.

Use strong authentication technology.

Don’t use public computers to do your online banking or bill paying.

Learn what to do if something goes wrong.

Other good online resources are www.onguardonline.gov and www.fraud.org.

If you believe you’ve been scammed, file your complaint at www.ftc.gov, and then visit the FTC’s Identity Theft website at www.consumer.gov/idtheft.

Computers are great tools and the Internet is an incredible resource. To think about what the two of them together can accomplish is astounding. But if you’re not careful, you may get caught in someone’s phishing expedition.

Keep your eyes open and be aware of your surroundings as if you were in a bad part of town. These guys don’t phish or cut bait as those in a boat do. They are relentless. Just because the Internet is a virtual place, doesn’t mean you can’t really get ripped off. You can.

It’s virtually the same.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly. Arthur welcomes your computer questions and ideas for future columns.

To Standby or Hibernate: that is the question

Computer Care: Frequent ‘naps,’ then a long rest, best to power down PC

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

POSTED June 20, 2009 12:12 a.m.

There is an ongoing debate concerning powering down computers. Should you leave them on 24/7 or turn them off when you’re done with them?

There are benefits to doing both, so I compromise with my computers. I put them to sleep. Since I use my PCs on and off most of the day, I leave them turned on, but put them in a state of hibernation.

Now let’s first discuss the difference between sleep, or standby, and hibernation. They both turn off the monitor and hard drive.

In standby mode, all that you are working on is first saved to RAM or system memory when you turn your computer off. When you wake it up, usually by moving the mouse or pressing the space bar, your system wakes up to what you were previously working on. This is nice, but if you’re using a laptop, it puts a drain on your power supply — namely the battery, if you’re not plugged in.

In standby mode, the computer is in a reduced power state, but remains on.

The difference between that and hibernation is that when the computer hibernates, the data is saved to the hard drive and then the system powers off. When you wake it up, this time via the power button, it, too, returns to where you left off, without any loss of data or power.

With a laptop, you can set it up so all you need to do is close the lid and your system will go in the sleep mode of your choice.

My experience is that with XP, there are some issues with hibernation. I choose standby mode when working with it. Whenever I use hibernate, it would inevitably fail and make me reboot the system, ultimately losing what I was working on.

To disable hibernate in XP, go to Control Panel and click the Power Option icon. From the Hibernate tab there, you can uncheck and thereby disable that function.

Vista works well with either standby or hibernate.

Again, if you’re on a laptop, remember the power drain and keep the sleep to a nap, unless you have it plugged in.

Using XP, all you need to do is right-click on a blank area of your desktop and choose Properties. From there you’ll see a tab called Screen Saver. Within that area is a button that says, Power. Click it and you will be able to customize how and when your computer turns off.

For example, you can set it up so your display goes blank in 10 minutes (of nonuse), your hard drive shuts down in 20 minutes and the system powers down in 30 minutes. Choose whatever works best for you.

With Vista, click the start button and go to Control Panel. Depending upon which view mode you’re in, either click on Power Options, or if you don’t see it, first click on System and Maintenance, then on Power Options.

From there you’ll be able to customize how and when your computer shuts down. Vista is a bit more sophisticated than XP in that it offers power plans to choose from as well as everything XP offers. You can also adjust your display’s brightness setting from there.

Alternatively, right-click your desktop and choose "Personalize" and go to "Screen Saver." At the bottom of that box click on the link to change power settings.

In both operating systems, you can set up different options for when it is plugged in or when on batter power. But Vista takes it a step further. You can choose on a sliding scale whether you want higher performance or longer battery life.

Under Power Options, choose a plan and then click to change plan settings. You could also click the Change Advanced Power Settings option to access the Advanced tab. By clicking on each plus sign you see, you’ll expand that option and have control over everything power related in your computer. It is highly customizable.

Now I have found that not all versions of Vista have exactly the same menu structure. So if you can’t find something, look around; you’re close.

Well, should you leave you computer on all the time? I don’t think it’s a good idea. It puts wear and tear on the moving parts, not to mention the power it uses. Beside, when you power-down a PC and turn it on again, it refreshes the system memory and the computer will run faster.

Also many times when you have a problem, all you need to do is reboot your computer. By turning it off and on again, many small issues are resolved.

I put mine to sleep during the day and shut them down at night. They follow my habits. We take naps during the day and when finished for the night, pull the plug.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly. Arthur welcomes your computer questions and ideas for future columns.

Video Chat Online

Computer Care: Webcams a great way to stay close

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

POSTED June 6, 2009 12:41 a.m.

My daughter Molly moved out of the house recently. She not only moved out of the house, but out of the state. So this relates to computers how? I’ll tell you.

Before she left, I set up her laptop with a webcam and a video conferencing program. Now we’re able to video chat with her and send video e-mails. It’s the next best thing to her being in town, and my wife is easier to live with.

This is by no means an expensive or difficult venture. Webcams practically set themselves up and go for $20-$200. There are lots of good ones in the $30-$50 range. You can shop for them locally at most major retailers.

But the best buys, in my opinion, are online. Check out newegg.com, tigerdirect.com, amazon.com, overstock.com or ebay.com.

An advantage to buying online is that you can read comments from those who already purchased the product you’re looking at. If lots of folks say the sound quality is poor, I’ll assume that it is and move on.

Microsoft has more than a few models to choose from, as does Logitech, a big name in webcams. There’s also some from Creative to consider. The software is free and there is a bunch to choose from.

Some of the cameras come with a disc that includes at least one program. I tested Yahoo Messenger, Skype. ooVoo, Microsoft Messenger and SightSpeed. There is also one called Eyeball Chat.

All of these offer free downloadable programs that are easy to use. You register the program, give yourself an identifiable name, plug in the webcam and you’re good to go.

All will allow you to chat online with any service and some will let you create video e-mails as well. You simply send it as an attachment.

If you use Outlook 2003, you can create a video email from within Outlook. The 2007 version, not surprisingly, doesn’t support it.

There are a few things to know about using webcams. Place your cam at eye level about 18-24 inches in front of you. Lots of new laptops and netbooks have them integrated in the bezel around the monitor.

If not an auto-focus model, be sure your image is crisp and clear. Try to position yourself so you are illuminated. If there’s a window or lamp behind you, it will be light and you will be a shadow.

All programs have some adjustments to fine tune your image. (You get to preview your headshot before you transmit it.) Tweak the brightness and contrast if necessary and test the audio.

If you’re trying to hook up a webcam you found lying around your house and you can’t get it to work, consider the operating system. An older cam may only have a device driver for XP; it may not work with Vista. You could always try to download a current driver from the manufacturer’s web site, but you may need to get a new web cam if you have Vista.

It’s also worth mentioning that some, but not all of the webcams come with an integrated microphone. If yours has one, it’s good in that you won’t need an additional piece of hardware.

But realize that a device that small will not generate the best quality audio. Those built-in mics are nothing more than tiny holes on the side of the cam.

There is the option of using a dedicated microphone or even a headset with a boom mic. It’s your choice. All desktops as well as laptops have inputs for headphones and microphones.

The picture quality has a lot to do with the optics of the lens. As with any camera, the more glass, the better the picture. The old adage, "you get what you pay for," applies to both of these instances. But it may work for you. You’re not creating a family archive to be passed down to the generations. It’s a web chat.

A closing caveat: There also are web-based programs. These are the type that you don’t download. You simply go to their Web sites, camera ready, and chat online using their service.

Such sites are chat platforms largely for the singles set. You can join a chat room or create one of your own. They are great for meeting folks online.

But if you’re just looking for a simple 1:1 video chat with your chosen few, choose one of the other programs.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly. Arthur welcomes your computer questions and ideas for future columns.