Digital Photography Tips

Computer Care: Tips to shoot high-quality digital photos

	By Arthur Glazerglazer.tech@gmail.com

UPDATED: March 16, 2012 11:40 p.m.

Computer Care: Tips to shoot high-quality digital photos By Arthur Glazerglazer.tech@gmail.com UPDATED: March 16, 2012 11:40 p.m. Aside from being a technician and writer, I am a photographer. People often ask what kind of camera I have when they remark about my shots. The fact is, I only paid a few hundred dollars for my camera; it's not a professional model by any means. I explain that I don't have a great camera, but a good eye. Too often I see photos posted on Facebook, websites or blogs that people are proud of. They have the potential to be good shots but were simply posted prematurely and unedited. You don't need superior knowledge or special software (although the latter is nice), to transform an average photo into an extraordinary one.Most PHD cameras (Press Here, Dummy) come with software. Alternatively, you can download free software at download.com. Just use terms like "free photo editor" in your keyword search. A wonderful (free) open-source program is GIMP. It's a Photoshop-like program for the serious photographer. Download it at http://www.gimp.org. Whether you use Photoshop, GIMP or another freebie from the Web, there are a few simple steps to enhancing each photo you take. Crop your image, especially if you didn't get close enough when you took it. Try to delete extraneous background matter that could draw attention away from your subject. Optimize the picture. Lighten shadows, darken bright spots and add contrast when necessary. Some photo editors have a one-click button that does it all automatically. Watch for things like trees and telephone poles coming out of subjects' heads. Shooting from a different angle or asking your subjects to move could avoid this. If unavoidable, with the use of software, a clone tool can place sky or foliage where a pole may have been. Be aware of your background; if you can avoid it, keep stray people out of your shots (although you can learn to get rid of them with the software). Try to have subjects looking into the shot instead of out of it. The same goes for flying birds, sailboats, etc. It makes for a more interesting picture. Use the Rule of Thirds while composing your photos. Having your subject off-center just looks better. Wikipedia provides a good explanation of this concept at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_thirds. Be aware of the sun and try not to shoot into it; but don't have your subjects squinting either. Consider its position in the sky. A high sun is the brightest, but causes facial shadows. A low sun has a softer light but causes long shadows. Watch for reflections in glass, especially if you're using a flash. Don't be afraid to use a flash outdoors. It will get rid of facial shadows. Keep in mind that most cameras' built-in flashes will reach only 6-8 feet, so make sure you are close enough for it to have an effect. If you do use a flash, watch for red eye. Your camera may have pre-flash burst that eliminates red-eye or you can easily treat it with your software. If you use a DSLR, you can be more creative and have more control over the camera by taking it out of Auto Mode. There is a direct relationship between shutter speed and aperture size. To get the same exposure, for each F-stop you decrease (higher number yields a smaller aperture), you need to add a time element.For example: shooting at 125th of a second at F-16 is the same as 250 and F-8. There are times you may need a faster shutter speed (to stop the action) and times that call for a smaller aperture (it yields a greater depth of field). Set your DSLR to bracket your shots. It will take photos at the exposure you want and one or a few on either side of that to ensure you'll get a good one. Remember the resolution: it all depends on whether you're posting an image online or printing it. To do the latter you want a hi-res shot. To get a good 8 X 10, you'll want at least a 4 MB image. For Facebook, you can put up a 60k image and it will look just fine, but you couldn't print it. Film and the processing of it used to be expensive. Digital photography is not. Take lots of shots. I often shoot a few dozen images just to get one or two good ones. Some will have a poor exposure, others may be blurred and a few will have the subject either not smiling or with their eyes closed. If you take enough shots, you are guaranteed to have at least a few quality photos. Even those few that appear to look fine will warrant some tweaking. Unless they were cropped while you took them, if you do no other editing, crop them with your photo utility. With just a $90 camera, a trained eye, some free software and this advice, you'll soon hear your friends tell you what nice shots you've posted. Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly on the Business page

Digital Cameras

Computer Care: New high-tech cameras offer more options at lower price

By Arthur Glazerarthur@glazerthepctech.com

	POSTED: November 13, 2010 1:00 a.m. Digital single lens reflex cameras, or DSLRs, as they are called, have become ubiquitous, even for the novice photographer. They used to cost up to $1,500 as once did a good laptop. Now both can be had for under a grand. You can still spend a couple of thousand dollars for either one, but unless you need professional-grade quipment, it isn't necessary. Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Canon and Panasonic and others have recently come out with DSLRs that are affordable and put the point-and-shoot genre to shame. These subthousand dollar cameras can be as easy to use as a point and shoot in auto-mode or as tricky as an SLR and just as creative in manual mode. There are actually more modes than you can shake a memory stick at. Aside from the standard Auto, Manual, Shutter and Aperture Priority modes, there are settings for portraits, sports, night time, panoramas, macro (extreme close-up) and much more. The plethora of buttons that cover the top and back of many models, have been moved to easy-to-navigate menus in the camera software. Only the bare essential buttons were left in most cases. Unlike the cheaper point and shoot models, the DSLRs have interchangeable lenses. Most come with a 18-55 mm or so zoom lens that cover a good basic range for most photographers. Depending on what brand camera you have and what you want to shoot, lenses can cost from under $100 to well over $1,000. Nikon, for example offer vibration reduction in their lenses. You can get a less expensive lens without the VR, but at a high zoom, any hand shaking can blur your photo. Also note whether or not the zoom lens offers auto focus. Sony and Pentax put their anti-shake technology in the camera instead of the lens. This makes their lenses less expensive and makes any lens that's made for that camera anti-shake. Many of the new cameras have a guide mode that takes you by the hand, if that's what you need to take good pictures. A lot of the newer models have high definition video, making the camera a two-in-one. In the past movie modes existed, but they were of a lesser quality. They were also hard to keep in focus, especially in low light situations. High def has changed all that. The LCD panels on the rear of the cameras have gone from 2 inches to 2.5 inches and now to 3 inches in most models. The color is vibrant and sharp. Some even have articulating rear panels, making it possible to take a picture holding the camera over your head or at your waist and still see what you're shooting. Some of these LCDs offer live view, which allows you to see your subject; others just provide device information such as exposure settings and menus. My personal preference is toward Sony and their alpha line of cameras. They are all affordable, especially if you get a used or refurbished model. Starting with the alpha, or a100 a few years back, they have since added the a200, a 250 and a300. Models higher than that are pro models for a lot more money. The a33 and a55 which offers a new type of technology just came out this summer. They are about 14 and 16 megapixels, respectively. Technically not a DSLR, they use translucent mirrors that light passes through instead of bouncing off it. The cameras shoot photos faster than ever; HD video is included and the cameras are smaller and lighter than previous models. Both of those cost less than $1,000 new, with a zoom lens. Nikon has a similar model, the D3100 and Canon has the T2i, but they lack the new technology the Sony has. Let's talk maintenance for a moment. One bad thing you can do is to toss your camera in your bag without a case, especially the point-and-shoots. The metal that covers the lens is wafer-thin and can be damaged by your cell phone, glasses, etc. Dust can also kill it. Invest in an $8 case. It will save an $80 camera. Check the batteries. If they are not fresh, your camera may not turn on. Make sure to take them out if the camera is not in use for long periods. Batteries can leak and ruin your camera. By using rechargeable batteries you can save a small fortune. They cost more initially, but can last for years. Does your camera have a viewfinder? By using it instead of the LCD panel, your battery life will be extended significantly. Consider updating your camera's firmware if you are having issues with it. Go to the manufacturer's website to download a small file and then install it in the camera with the USB cable that came with it. If you use one of those point-and-shoot cameras and feel stymied by their lack of options, consider a DSLR and let your creativity flow. The images that you can produce will be phenomenal.

Digital single lens reflex cameras, or DSLRs, as they are called, have become ubiquitous, even for the novice photographer. They used to cost up to $1,500 as once did a good laptop. Now both can be had for under a grand.

You can still spend a couple of thousand dollars for either one, but unless you need professional-grade quipment, it isn't necessary.

Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Canon and Panasonic and others have recently come out with DSLRs that are affordable and put the point-and-shoot genre to shame. These subthousand dollar cameras can be as easy to use as a point and shoot in auto-mode or as tricky as an SLR and just as creative in manual mode.

There are actually more modes than you can shake a memory stick at. Aside from the standard Auto, Manual, Shutter and Aperture Priority modes, there are settings for portraits, sports, night time, panoramas, macro (extreme close-up) and much more.

The plethora of buttons that cover the top and back of many models, have been moved to easy-to-navigate menus in the camera software. Only the bare essential buttons were left in most cases.

Unlike the cheaper point and shoot models, the DSLRs have interchangeable lenses. Most come with a 18-55 mm or so zoom lens that cover a good basic range for most photographers. Depending on what brand camera you have and what you want to shoot, lenses can cost from under $100 to well over $1,000.

Nikon, for example offer vibration reduction in their lenses. You can get a less expensive lens without the VR, but at a high zoom, any hand shaking can blur your photo. Also note whether or not the zoom lens offers auto focus.

Sony and Pentax put their anti-shake technology in the camera instead of the lens. This makes their lenses less expensive and makes any lens that's made for that camera anti-shake.

Many of the new cameras have a guide mode that takes you by the hand, if that's what you need to take good pictures.

A lot of the newer models have high definition video, making the camera a two-in-one. In the past movie modes existed, but they were of a lesser quality. They were also hard to keep in focus, especially in low light situations. High def has changed all that.

The LCD panels on the rear of the cameras have gone from 2 inches to 2.5 inches and now to 3 inches in most models. The color is vibrant and sharp. Some even have articulating rear panels, making it possible to take a picture holding the camera over your head or at your waist and still see what you're shooting.

Some of these LCDs offer live view, which allows you to see your subject; others just provide device information such as exposure settings and menus.

My personal preference is toward Sony and their alpha line of cameras. They are all affordable, especially if you get a used or refurbished model. Starting with the alpha, or a100 a few years back, they have since added the a200, a 250 and a300. Models higher than that are pro models for a lot more money.

The a33 and a55 which offers a new type of technology just came out this summer. They are about 14 and 16 megapixels, respectively. Technically not a DSLR, they use translucent mirrors that light passes through instead of bouncing off it.

The cameras shoot photos faster than ever; HD video is included and the cameras are smaller and lighter than previous models. Both of those cost less than $1,000 new, with a zoom lens.

Nikon has a similar model, the D3100 and Canon has the T2i, but they lack the new technology the Sony has.

Let's talk maintenance for a moment. One bad thing you can do is to toss your camera in your bag without a case, especially the point-and-shoots. The metal that covers the lens is wafer-thin and can be damaged by your cell phone, glasses, etc. Dust can also kill it. Invest in an $8 case. It will save an $80 camera.

Check the batteries. If they are not fresh, your camera may not turn on. Make sure to take them out if the camera is not in use for long periods. Batteries can leak and ruin your camera.

By using rechargeable batteries you can save a small fortune. They cost more initially, but can last for years.

Does your camera have a viewfinder? By using it instead of the LCD panel, your battery life will be extended significantly.

Consider updating your camera's firmware if you are having issues with it. Go to the manufacturer's website to download a small file and then install it in the camera with the USB cable that came with it.

If you use one of those point-and-shoot cameras and feel stymied by their lack of options, consider a DSLR and let your creativity flow. The images that you can produce will be phenomenal.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer and computer technician who lives in Gainesville. His column appears biweekly.

Digital Photograhy

Learn to control camera’s canvas

By Arthur Glazer
arthur@glazerthepctech.com

POSTED Feb. 27, 2008 5:02 a.m.

Picture this. You line up your shot and frame it in your viewer, taking careful aim. You hold your breath and gently squeeze. You could be shooting a gun or a picture. Taking the shot with either is similar. With a camera, try not to jerk the shutter release, which results in a blurred picture. Although taking pictures may have changed with the digital age, the basics remain the same.

The idea behind setting up the shot in photography is to plan it. You are composing. Look through that viewer as if you were looking at an album. How does it look? Is it interesting? Is it something you would print or show to others? If not, regroup and start again.

There are a few things to remember with photography. First, know your camera. I can’t stress that enough. It is a versatile instrument. If you have more than an automatic mode, learn them and the relationship between shutter speeds and f-stops. The latter controls the aperture and the depth of field. What that means is the smaller the opening, the greater your range of focus, but with less light. To compensate for that you can slow your shutter speed, which will make it lighter; so will moving to a higher ISO.

You may say it’s too much trouble and opt for the auto shot. But by doing it manually, you control the shot. You can be creative with what’s in focus, what is light. You can even create the idea of motion in an action shot by panning.

Shooting at noon will produce long shadows. The best time for photography is early or late. Not only are the shadows less, but the light itself is softer. Try to shoot with the sun at your back, illuminating your subject. Don’t be afraid to use a flash for fill-in of shadows. Most flashes will lose their effectiveness after 6 or 8 feet so keep that in mind. It always amuses me at a stadium when I see all those flashes go off. They accomplish nothing.

Keep in mind when shooting by a reflective surface, don’t shoot directly into it. Remember angle of incidence equals angle of reflection. If you shoot your subject directly in front of a window, the flash will reflect right back into your lens. If you stand at a 45-degree angle, the flash will bounce off at the same angle, avoiding that hot spot.

Contrary to popular belief, a centered photo is not the most interesting. Place your subject off-center and have them looking into, rather than out of the picture. A dog jumping into the frame looks infinitely better than one jumping out of it.

Consider the Rule of Thirds. Draw a tic-tac-toe grid over your image. You have nine boxes from two horizontal lines over two vertical lines. The areas where the lines intersect, (four spots) should ideally be where your subject should be placed. It just makes for a more interesting shot.

Don’t be afraid to get close to your subject. If the background is not important, forget about it. If you’re shooting a person, then get close. Show us their facial features. Let us look into their eyes. Capture the expressiveness of the person.

Take lots of shots. Remember, you’re not buying film anymore. You can always delete the bad images from your card. When I take pictures of school plays, I shoot about 200 pictures — and use maybe 30 of them.

Try to keep extra batteries (or a charger) and an extra flash card or two on hand. Experiment with macro mode. Change settings. Use a tripod. Try panning. Have fun.

Just because you finished taking pictures doesn’t mean you’re done. Chances are your camera came with an imaging program. If not, go to download.com and look for one. If you can splurge for Photoshop, it is well worth the investment. Whichever you use, they all have the same basic elements.

Open your photo in the program, get rid of any red-eye, crop the image and optimize the tonal quality. Just like the camera, it can be done automatically. But what’s the fun in that? You have more control over the final result if you do it manually.

After all, photography is a hobby and you’re supposed to enjoy the time you spend with it. You will find great satisfaction after shooting and manipulating an image by yourself from start to finish. And everyone appreciates a good picture.

Arthur Glazer is a freelance writer, a local computer technician and an avid amateur photographer.